Ryan Villopoto 2013 Replica – Bike Assembled

Bike is assembled hurray! So, last time I posted the start of this replica had begun with the front end assembled, but afterwards I wasnt happy about it. I have some oil leaking so will need to replace orings and bushings but Im leaving that until after I test oil weight I put in. The bigger issue was the front wheel had a lot of slop in it so I had to take wheel apart and fix it with some plastic. Oh by the way, I tried to write up all the tips (under GARAGE menu) for anything that I think improved the bike. Heres link to fixing front wheel slop http://www.rcdirtbikeaction.com/639/tip-remove-slop-in-front-wheel-with-plastic-bags/.

Next I inspected the bearings for the layshaft, spur, and swingarm. Surprisingly all but 1 needed replacing and those are originals from purchase in 2011. I already had the big bore shock built, but you can find that HOW-TO under the garage menu. Next up was the rear wheel.

I think most of the Atomik e-gyro’s out there are loud because of the bearings but I’ve heard of some being badly out of balance. I also felt some vibrations in the rear wheel that shouldn’t be going on, so I after I heard others doing it, I decided to balance my e-gyro flywheel. Here’s the tip detailing what I did: http://www.rcdirtbikeaction.com/626/tip-balance-of-your-atomik-e-gyro-flywheel/. Bearings still sounded like crap but vibrations were gone so I think its going to help.

The final project before assembling the rear wheel was to inspect the red spacer that is on the axle on left side of the e-gyro assembly. It sits right behind the bearing on the left side of the wheel. Length of the spacer has a stock length of 6mm but the length is too long and pushes the wheel bearings out of the casing / wheel pockets, so I removed from material from the red spacer to fix that. Here’s the tip with more details http://www.rcdirtbikeaction.com/658/tip-check-length-of-atomik-e-gyro-red-spacer/. Final part to do on rear wheel was to install some hop-up Atomik Chain Adjusters. If I was going to buy the Alleven RC microdrive chain/sprocket, then I would get the chain adjuster for that instead, but Im using stock chain at the moment.  No matter, these are temporary until my custom adjusters come in from a friend out of country. 😉

So thats it for getting the bike up to specs for track testing later. Time to get body painted, graphics made, and little details on the bike, then onto painting the rider. You can see some of the extra touches in current pic below, including polishing the side crash bar mounts and dyeing the front fork guards black to match RV’s bike.

rv 2013 bike assembled 1-10-13


  1. Thanks Mike!
    Im just using some Sharpie brand silver paint pens that are oil based. I find them at the office supply chain stores like Office Depot or Staples. I also tried from craft store called Michaels, it was the generic Michaels brand silver paint pen and it was crap. I did a tests on part of frame not seen and when dried would just try scratching with nail to see how strong and Michaels brand came right off, Sharpie noticeably stronger. Pens are easy for touch-ups too. Other options: Ive seen pics from an owner who used a spray paint from Wattyl (never heard of them) “killrust” epoxy gloss enamel topcoat in silver. He sprayed his rims silver too and says its holding up nice.

  2. Sharpie pen eh, I never would have thought of that. Have to stop and pic a few colors up onthe way home. i just got my mm450 late last week. Have done the forks, have a big bore on the way and plan to check the gyro flywheel tonite for balance. I really enjoy your site how to and tip sections.


  3. Yeah I’ve only used the silver and gold oil based so I cant say how any other colors work if they are even available in oil based pens. Just test it out on bottom of bike, like inside the hatch of battery case or some other similar plastic. Enjoy your new bike Mike.

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